Butter Chicken, 1974
Tomato reduced six hours, cold butter, fenugreek. The one dish we will never take off.
Thamel · Kathmandu
Live-fire cooking, heritage spice blends and a seasonal tasting menu in the heart of Thamel.
Agni means fire
Our kitchen is built around live heat. Everything that can be cooked over coals is, and everything that can't is finished beside them. The result is food that tastes of smoke and patience rather than of a spice cupboard.
Chef Anaya Raghavan trained in Chettinad and cooked for a decade across Lyon and Copenhagen before opening AGNI. The menu reads as regional Indian, but the produce is almost entirely Himalayan — mountain lamb, valley trout, vegetables from three growers in the Kathmandu Valley.
What people come back for
The rest of the menu changes with the season. These do not.
Tomato reduced six hours, cold butter, fenugreek. The one dish we will never take off.
Sealed under pastry, opened at your table. Forty minutes from order to lid.
Twelve hours in hung yoghurt and black cardamom, four minutes over coals.
Black urad set over embers for thirty-six hours. Nothing else in the pot but time.
Chef’s table
Seven courses drawn from whatever the coals and the market give us that week. Served to the whole table until 21:00.
£95
7 courses, per guest
£65
Wine & chai pairing
The spice room
No masala in this kitchen is older than a day. Whole spices are dry-roasted each morning and ground to order, which is why a curry here tastes floral rather than dusty.
Sixteen seats at the bar
The bar runs on the kitchen's ingredients — curry leaf, tamarind, jaggery, black salt. Every cocktail has a considered zero-proof version, priced lower.
Gin, Campari, tamarind vermouth, orange oil.
Curry-leaf gin, lime cordial, green peppercorn tincture.
Masala-chai bourbon, jaggery, cocoa bitters.
Cumin vodka, mint, black salt, soda. Also served zero-proof.
“The dal alone justifies the trip. Thirty-six hours of embers is not marketing — you can taste every one of them.”
“Kathmandu has plenty of ambitious Indian restaurants. AGNI is the rare one that feels like a kitchen rather than a concept.”
“A biryani that arrives sealed, steaming and genuinely worth the forty-minute wait.”
Tables open sixty days ahead
Thamel Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu, 44600. Walk-ins welcome at the bar; everything else we recommend booking.